Sabor of Spain :: Vinoteca

We here in the North Bay are certainly no strangers to wine. But drinking wine has spread far beyond the confines of the tasting rooms, with those of all ages and backgrounds becoming do-it-yourself connoisseurs. Wine bars are quickly becoming the new coffee shops, where throngs of twenty- and thirty-somethings congregate to strip the fermented potion of its pompous, pretentious association.

Wine bars are most closely associated with enotecas, the Italian establishments that date back to ancient Rome, where people would chat and enjoy snacks while drinking together. But a look at some local bars proves that the one thing on which the world is united is the youthful pursuit of grapes and gab.

San Rafael's Sabor of Spain (1301 Fourth St., San Rafael; 415.717.7410; www.saborofspain.com) was born of a woman's frustrated longing for a piece of home. "I used to work for wine clubs in Spain, and I always sold the Italian and French restaurants all their wines and California wine," says Spanish-born co-owner Maika Llorens. "I always thought, 'Why doesn't something from Spain exist?'"

Llorens decided to create it herself, modeling Sabor of Spain after traditional vinotecas. "A vinoteca is a high-end place where you have an extended selection of wine with tapas," she says. "I hear many comments from our customers that just came back from Spain, and they say this is the closest thing they've seen."

Of course, social interaction is paramount in any wine bar, and Sabor of Spain rises to the challenge with a few long, cafeteria-style tables that serve as communal tasting centers. The front patio section allows the good cheer to spread to the rest of Fourth Street. "It was one of my dreams to have what is called terrazas," Llorens says. "You sit outside, have a drink and look at the people going around--it's like an outdoor bar."

Decided by friendly consensus, of course, is the extensive Spanish-only wine list, currently boasting over 170 different offerings, typically ranging from $6 to $10 by the glass. Though it possesses the most acreage of any country devoted to vineyards, according to Llorens, Spain still flies below the radar of most wine connoisseurs. However, Llorens feels strongly that Spain wine will be a strong contender in the U.S. wine market. "They have an amazing value," she says. "Things for $50 or $60 per bottle you can find here for $15 to $20."

While this may be true, wine bars are immortal. While late to the trend that has thrived in some countries for centuries, the United States is finally catching on quickly, with places that re-create classic auras or present exciting new variations to social sipping. Never has the American dream been so intoxicating.